November 1, 2012
After three days in Olympia, I wonder if this might be the friendliest place in the Pacific Northwest—from the desk clerks at the Governor Hotel, restaurant and store staffs to children in strollers and even the guy fixing a milkshake with ice cream & milk spinning out all over his shirt and face. Smiles. And laughs. What the?
Maybe there’s something to Olympia Beer’s former famous slogan “It’s the water.” (“Oly” was brewed with local artesian water from 1896 until 1983 when it was acquired by what would become Pabst Brewing Company.) There is an artesian well downtown pumping a steady stream of crystal clear water for use by anyone so inclined. But even if you’re not drinking that artesian water, maybe it’s the water of the Deschutes River tumbling into town over Tumwater Falls and into Capital Lake before joining Budd Inlet on south Puget Sound. And lest we forget, rain. All that ionization breeds well-being?
I can’t say. All I know is for three days this fall in Washington State’s capital city I met, passed by, or was waited on by extraordinarily friendly people.
eat Food glorious food…
acqua via simple, rustic inspired food in a tasty chic atmosphere. above: Artichoke soup w/Parmesan & white truffle; Porchetta di Parma roasted pork loin w/caramelized onion, white cheddar & apple butter 1/2 sandwich on grilled foccacia; hand-made chips.
La Petite Maison fine French cuisine in a 1908 restored Craftsman-style home tucked away in a West Olympia busy outskirts neighborhood. Inside, it’s another world – intimate dining in the attentive care of chef Justin Wells and his cheerful/knowledgeable/head waitron/sommelier wife Zoe. Excellent wines & carefully prepared cuisine. above: olives marines & baguette; salade de samoun fume (house smoked salmon – more like gravlox, waaay salty) smothered in herbs and arugula w/fresh radish; baked pear in caramel, house-made vanilla ice cream.
Swing Wine Bar & Cafe a cozy house on a hill, warm, inviting, casual. Extensive wine list, creative cocktails, great food. above: a flight of red wine suspended in artful presentation with friendly bartender Sean in background. Well-lit open bar comfortable for women alone. The “Lush Rush” happy hour 4-6 pm daily.
Traditions Cafe & World Folk Art for wholesome paninis, soups, salads, coffee & herbal teas – a community hangout with views of Capital Lake & the capital building. Casual comfort food + import fair trade store with everything from quirky gifts, toys & books to fab silk scarves & colorful hand knit wool caps. above: Chai tea + ginger molasses cookie.
Buck’s Fifth Avenue for everything spice.
The Farmer’s Market for seafood, meats, seasonal produce, arts & crafts.Shopping on
4th & 5th Avenues to shop. Crazy about Shoes? Bonaventure Shoes & Yolli. Flow & Function, eclectic collections of really neat stuff.
stay The newly renovated (top floors) Governor Hotel. A great location downtown, easy walking everywhere or catch the free Dash shuttle to the Capital grounds or Percival Landing waterfront park & Farmer’s Market.
The Governor Hotel renovations are stylish & quirky. Check out the hand-tinted vintage photos of Olympia governors in odd situations (holding trout, getting a haircut) or notable landscapes (a 1960s Ford Fairlane convertible parked in front of Capital Lake with the capital building in the background – you’d swear it’s Don Draper & blonde on a date)
Room(s) with a view west Capital Lake (beyond city street); east Sylvester Park.
Out of town worth the drive: The Inn at Mallard Cove a Tudor manse tucked in tall firs on the edge of Puget Sound.
Shoes off (socks provided) for the expanses of beautiful Oregon white oak flooring. Three well-appointed (luxurious linens, antiques) guest rooms upstairs, each with its own subtle theme and color palate, gas fireplace, balcony, and ensuite bathroom. Owners Linda and Don Malatestato have taken great care to provide a warm and welcoming English home. (Yet, oddly, with all the exquisite detail & English Tudor authenticity in this handsome home, pre-fab window grids pretending to be panes are achingly out-of-place.) Both Don & Linda are accommodating and gracious so don’t be put off by the over-regulation, including having to sign a “no-smoking” agreement. Ask Linda over her lovely breakfast about the serendipitous journey to finding their dream inn. Don will even guide you by kayak to the nearby Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge.) Below: baked pear, chicken sausage, Quiche, fresh-baked banana bread and tea for breakfast (or coffee, vegetarian options available); ensuite bathroom to die for; room with a view.
Oh, yes! the view. Even in the dark morning rain.
play Not only great places to eat and unique shops downtown, but this is recreation heaven. You can hike or bike trails, kayak and motor or sail from city marinas directly into Puget Sound. Don’t miss nearby Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge for fabulous bird and critter watching. Miles of gravel trails & boardwalks take you through woods and out into the tidal marshes.
Getting there I’d love to say take Amtrak – so easy from Portland or Seattle – but alas, unless you have a friend pick you up, take a bike and are diligent enough to pre-plan (Thurston County Bicycle Map)the easy, but tricky sometimes unmarked bike paths, willing to take an hour transit ride for the less than 20 minute hop into downtown, or call a cab (approx. $30) you’re out of luck. Drive then. Easy access from I-5.
Thanks to wonderful lodging hosts, Carole Zahorsky from Zahorsky PR, and George Sharp from Olympia/Lacey/Tumwater Visitor’s Bureau for helping me meander and enjoy this lively city on the Sound.
July 31, 2012
February 29, 2012
It’s been a long time keeping up with travel writing. Busy immersed in editing the new edition of Wild in the City: Exploring The Intertwine with Mike Houck. Over 100 contributors, great sites, rambles, natural history essays… Great book!
If you want to know Portland-Vancouver area natural spaces, this is it.
So, back to travel adventures this extra day 2012. Upcoming: On the Coast – Astoria, Long Beach Peninsula; Updates on downtown Portland.
October 2, 2010
Road trip with my sisters and niece. First night in downtown Seattle at the renovated New Renaissance Hotel – posh and tasty, top floor salt water swimming pool, had to stay swimming (some hot tubbing it) until closing at 11 p.m. Cookies and milk delivered to our elegant chic Presidential Suite where we were staying thanks to a front desk mix-up. Lucky us!
The next day takes us to Anacortes overnight near the dock for the morning ferry. From our P. Suite aerie we could see traffic backed up all morning heading north, so took ground routes through the University District – later found out from friends that accidents had held up traffic all day Tacoma to Everett. Kudos to the New Renaissance for terrific views of Puget Sound and freeways heading north saved us sitting in traffic all day…
Pike Place Market in Seattle for lunch, ferry to San Juan Island, fresh-picked Friday Harbor blackberries for sister Sue’s home-made pie at friends’ farm, orcas! lighthouse, southbeach, happiness… more later.
In the meantime, Happy Trails, MJ
June 27, 2010
Don’t know why, but I seem especially attractive to dogs this week. It all started interviewing Harriet Bullitt, the extraordinary 80-something CEO of Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort (so named after the mountain profile in the property background).
Harriet Bullitt of Seattle Bullitt fame–TV & radio stations, magazines, philanthropy–retired to the retreat east of the Cascades in early 2000 and took up residency across the Icicle River. Retired, uh, not. This energetic, enigmatic woman still oversees her environmentally sound resort, 67 acres including rustic cabins and meeting spaces connected by meandering paths through stands of pine and aspen, KOHO radio station, The Grotto lounge and O’Grady’s Pantry deli café on campus as well as music venues, art everywhere and an organic garden that supplies Chef MacDonald’s excellent fresh, organic cuisine. Sleeping Lady feels like the best of childhood camp, but with good beds and private bathrooms.
Harriet arrives with her Icelandic shepherd, Loki, via cable stretched across the river that a logger, familiar with such, rigged up using an old lift chair from Stevens Pass ski resort. (Sister Sue Cody captures this pic. – Harriet crossing the river with one of the art salmon in foreground…)
I meet Harriet at O’Grady’s Pantry and sit down in an armchair nearby in front of the stone fireplace. Roki suddenly stretches on hind legs and paws at my shoulder, nose in my face, tail wagging. Harriet’s blue eyes widen, her mouth agape, “Roki never does that…doesn’t take to strangers.” After a minute of nose to nose interaction, Roki lies at my feet while Harriet shakes her head and laughs.
Rob’s blind chocolate lab, Roux, drops at my feet a slobbery half-chewed stick, nudging my shins to pick it up. Rob says no and Roux lumbers away. Later, touring the winery admiring the beautiful French oak vats, Roux reappears with a pine cone and lays it at my feet. Sue tries to get Roux to pay attention to her by moving the pine cone, but Roux slides it back to me.
“What’s with the dog charmer?” Sue asks after I tell her about Roki too.
Next, it’s downtown Leavenworth walking along the sidewalk when a young collie leaps to great me nearly pulling his owner off the bench on which he’s relaxing. He apologizes for his dog’s behavior, but Sue says “Don’t worry, dogs love her today.”
In the evening, a fifty-ish couple with a tiny black miniature poodle pup on leash approach walking the path back to our room from the dining hall at Sleeping Lady. Sue whispers, “OK let’s see,” and tries to get the dog’s attention. But no, the fluffy pup leaps for joy straining the leash trying to get to me. The owners apologize and Sue explains that dogs just can’t help themselves today. We laugh ourselves to our cabin.
Next day, Sue bets that the dog magic is gone.
Visiting Run of the River Resort their massive St. Bernard (pup!) comes right to me and Sue tries ruffling the neck, good boy, good boy, and he accepts this, but is sitting (all 140 lbs) on my foot leaning against my legs as she tries to dissuade his attachment.
Finally home, I’m watering plants out on the front porch and it sounds as though someone is talking near my back door which is open to let some air – that’s the lane access, so not unusual for neighbors to gather and visit a bit there, voices carrying. I decide to go see, as I know neighbors on both sides of my cabin are gone. What ho! A strange black collie-ish mutt is sitting on my doorstep smiling. He’s come up the two steps and is sitting on the sill, not coming in like a good dog, but there in the entrance. Well! Of course one has to pet and say good boy a few times and who are you? He does not answer although seems happy indeed. (And makes me wonder about who was talking - I don’t see anyone or anything, except the carpenter’s van next door and the carpenter way on the other side of the neighbor’s house…the dog walks back up the lane where the carpenter is, looking back at me like aren’t you coming too? I’m not and shut the door.
Until later, MJ
Links to Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort, Boudreaux Cellars Winery, Run of the River Inn, Leavenworth information:
May 28, 2010
A fine sunny day on the central Oregon coast. Friends Miss Magoo, Goods and I head south to Yachats for lunch at the Adobe Resort and Restaurant because the dining room overlooks the ocean. The pretty grass bluff with tiny pink tufted flowers contrasts nicely with the teal ocean, which happens to match the corduroy jeans I’m wearing. After fairly good family fare – tuna melts, not too greasy but bland red-snapper fish ‘n’ chips, a decent coleslaw and good French fries, we’re off to Cape Perpetua Lookout where on this sunny day we can see nearly 25 miles south.
I leave Miss Magoo & Goods sitting on a bench in the sun and take a short walk through the woods to a rock shelter where I meet Dustin & Miguel.
I hike back through the woods to the other side of the headland, barely a quarter mile. Here, I can see the (through tree branches) the shoreline stretching 25 miles north. Back to find Miss Magoo sunning on the bench and goods talking to a park ranger. Sitting in the sun, that spectacular coast…aaahhh.
Back in the car, Miss Magoo says she has a surprise and drives us in her red VW bug up the Yachats River to see “Oreo” cows. We think she’s had perhaps a bit too much sun.
We soon see a pasture of black and white cows, two white horses and a handful of white goats. Nothing remotely resembles an Oreo.
Miss Magoo stops the car near a woman opening a gate, rolls down her window, and asks, “Excuse me, are there Oreo cows near here?” Goods and I are rather mortified, but the woman nods, like, geez, tourists, and points up the road. “See?” Miss Magoo says to us, triumphant.
Sure enough, around a bend (near milepost 3) there are Oreo cows. Black, white, black. It’s laughable. It’s amazing. We want to hug them.
“OK, one more surprise,” Miss Magoo says, and we continue to the end of the road where stands a covered bridge.
I walk through the bridge, that is, across the bridge, and encounter the true end of the road: a most charming welcome sign warning not to do anything on this property.
Well that’s a fine day, followed by another and an excursion north to Depoe Bay for lunch at Tidal Raves Seafood Grill overlooking a lazy low-tide ocean with waves lapping at sandstone cliffs and kelp bulbs bobbing like children in a crowded deep-sea pool. Raves is right! A to-die-for green curry with halibut and excellent halibut tacos with black beans done to perfection.
No dessert, thanks, but on second thought…a huge chocolate chip cookie hot from the oven with vanilla bean ice-cream alamode. We decide to return later some evening, perhaps on my next trip to the coast, for the intriguing Rootbeer Float dessert drinks.
“Some evening later” turns out to be the next night after we three laugh ourselves silly through the movie “Date Night” and then race to Tidal Raves just before closing to test the Rootbeer Float dessert drinks.
Turns out I’d rather have a real rootbeer float and a real vodka martini rather than the mix. Another huge chocolate chip cookie hot from the oven alamode though.